Guide to Treking peaks in the Annapurna Sanctuary

For those wanting to experience Himalayan climbing, but who are interested in a cheaper and less beurocratic alternative to the major peaks that are available, what could be better than the trekking peaks of Nepal. Whilst permits are required to climb these peaks, they are much cheaper than for other peaks that are not classed as "trekking" peaks, costing as little as $150. An additional benefit is that the permits do not require you to specify your intended route as they do on non-trekking peaks, giving you more flexibility with your plans. There are currently 18 trekking peaks available ranging widely in size and difficulty, 4 of which are located in the Annapurna region of Nepal, and 3 of which I have been lucky enough to attempt (though only succeeding on Tharpu Chuli).

My expedition was in the Post Monsoon season of 1995, but since then things have become even cheaper. When I went it was necessary to purchase trekking permits for the approach walk, but since July 1999 these fees have been dropped for the Annapurna, Everest, and Langtang areas . All permits are controlled by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), and for administration purposes the trekking peaks are divided into 2 groups, A & B. Permits for Group A peaks cost US $300.00 Climbing Royalty for up to 9 persons, whilst Group B peaks cost US $150.00. Of the peaks in the Annapurna Sanctuary Hiunchuli and Singu Chuli fall into Group A, Tharpu Chuli falling into Group B.

Annapurna Sanctuary is approached from Pokhara, which is approximately 200 kilometres West of Kathmandu. Depending upon budget Pokhara can be approached from Kathmandu by road or by air, but in either case you should get there on the same day and you should have an exciting journey. From Pokhara a short journey by road will take you to one of several drop off points from where you will have to continue on foot. We took 4 days to reach Machapuchare Base Camp, and 5 days to Annapurna Base Camp from where Chris Bonnington launched his ground-breaking Annapurna South Face expedition. This felt a comfortable pace and gave us time to acclimatise, but it is not uncommon to take between 4 and 6 days Depending on fitness and acclimatisation (it takes between 2 and 4 days to walk back out). "Battis", or tea houses, can be found regularly along the way offering food, drink and accommodation at a very low price, so tents are not necessary for the walk in.

The peaks are Tharpu Chuli, Singu Chuli, and Hiunchuli which are all within the sanctuary. The map below should give an indication of where the mountains are in relation to each other.

Tharpu Chuli (AKA Tent Peak), 5663m

This is the most popular of the trekking peaks in the Annapurna Sanctuary due to its relatively low altitude, the fact that its standard routes are much easier than any routes on Singu Chuli or Hiunchuli, and because it is cheaper to get a permit (Group B). You may well consider doing this peak as an acclimatiser for the other trekking peaks (as we did). The standard route is relatively straight forward in good conditions, although heavy snow can make even the approach a complicated and arduous one.

The Routes

North West Ridge

Approach - This is the most popular route on the mountain, and is approached from the Annapurna Base Camp. From here you cross the South Annapurna Glacier to what is commonly known as "Tent Peak Base Camp", go left (West) across about 1km of tundra, then follow a faint track besides a gully to a position that offers a superb camp site above a deep cleft in the cliffs below. Continue up to the high camp on the moraine another 400-500m vertically above. It is certainly possible to go straight up to the high camp in a day if acclimatisation is going well, but bear in mind that this is approximately a full 1000m above Annapurna Base Camp.

The Climb - Follow the moraine up the side of the glacier until forced to leave it, then continue over the glacier in a North East direction towards the right end of the low fluted ridge that leads towards Tharpu Chuli from the North West. Climb this, approximately 200m of Scottish I/II, to the ridge where you can rest and appreciate the magnificent views. Follow the ridge to Tharpu Chuli and climb the last few hundred metres to the summit at about Scottish II.

South East Ridge

Approach - Approach as for the North West Ridge (above) as far as the high camp, then traverse right (East) until below the route.

The Climb - The route ascends the couloir that can be seen from Annapurna Base Camp to the right of the South West Face. Once up the couloir the ridge is followed to the summit passing a rock pinnacle on the left.

South West Face

Approach - As for the South East Ridge until approximately half way along the South West Face

The Climb - Climb rock above the glacier up to a shallow snow gully which is followed up the face to the summit

Singu Chuli (AKA Fluted Peak), 6501m

Singu Chuli lies to the North of Tharpu Chuli along a connecting ridge. This mountain is a much stiffer proposition than Tharpu Chuli, and is the highest of all the trekking peaks in the area. There are no straight forward routes up the mountain. The normal approach is a day or two beyond Machapuchare Base Camp (the last buildings or people you are likely to see until your return), and has the remotest feel of all the trekking peaks in the area. It is often climbed after an acclimatisation ascent of Tharpu Chuli.

The Routes

North East Face

Approach - Follow the trekking trail up to Machapuchare base camp and then cross the South Annapurna Glacier and moraines to head up the valley to the North (towards the West Annapurna Glacier) until you reach a rocky step / overhang. It is possible to scramble down beneath this, or to abseil. Continue up the valley to grassy meadows which can be used as an approach camp ( 4,200m.). Climb northwards along the West Annapurna Glacier and its moraine to another possible camp site, then continue below the South East Ridge of Singu Chuli to reach a plateau below the North East Face.

It is also possible to follow the approach as for the South Ridge and East Face, crossing a col on the South East Ridge to reach the North East Face. Some of our expedition got high on the North East Face by following this approach, though I couldn't say if the route up that face was the same!

The Climb - Follow the right hand of 2 gullies to a vertical wall about 120m high. From here climb another gully on the left to get past a serac band and reach steep steps and a ramp. Ascend these to gain the upper section of the face, and the East Ridge and then to the summit.

East Face / "Perun" (Often referred to as the South Face, or even as the South East Face)

Approach - As for the South Ridge approach

The Climb - Ascend the glacier until below the route in almost a day. Climb off the glacier on to the face proper with sections of 70¯ ice, then up 55¯-65¯ snow/ice slopes. The face becomes steeper and steeper (65o - 70o early on, then up to 80o ice and up to VI rock), and the climbing more mixed. Another few (crux) pitches lead to the summit, with rock-climbing up to VI+, some vertical ice and the unstable upper section of the South Ridge.

Other sources of information - http://www.tris-a.si/pzs/ka-exp7.htm

South Ridge

Approach - Follow the trekking trail up to Machapuchare base camp and then cross the South Annapurna Glacier and moraines to head up the valley to the North (towards the West Annapurna Glacier) until you reach a rocky step / overhang. It is possible to scramble down beneath this, or to abseil. Continue up the valley to grassy meadows which can be used as an approach camp ( 4,200m.). Climb northwards along the West Annapurna Glacier and its moraine to another possible camp site, then ascend West to a grassy shelf beside the glacier on the South East flank of Singu Chuli where it is possible to set up a high camp ( 4,900m.).

It would also be possible to approach the ridge from Tharpu Chuli's connecting ridge.

The Climb - Ascend the glacier beneath the East Face to the South Ridge in about a day, culminating in climbing up a snow ramp which takes you above a serac band just below the ridge. A suitable bivvy site can be found here at about 6000m. Climb the ridge to the summit.

Other sources of information - High 236

West Face

Approach - From the Annapurna Base Camp follow the South Annapurna Glacier until you reach the lowest point of the face.

The Climb - Climb up the moraine towards an obvious spur. Follow the spur up pinnacles and steep ice until you reach the summit plateau, then follow a tricky (usually corniced) ridge to the summit.

Hiunchuli, 6441m

Probably the most difficult of all these peaks, this mountain guards the entrance to the Sanctuary, and together with Annapurna South to its West, and Machapuchare to its East, it dominates the views on the walk in. It can provide large avalanches over the path into the Sanctuary when there is a lot of snow, and the scars of these avalanches can be clearly seen when the snow is absent. It also towers above Annapurna Base Camp. The standard route starts from just outside the Sanctuary.

The Routes

North West Face

Approach - Head West from ABC over moraines and glacier to the foot of a steep couloir beneath the connecting ridge between Hiunchuli and Annapurna South.

The Climb - Climb the couloir up to the West ridge. Climb the West Ridge until an abseil leads on to the South Ridge. Climb this to the summit.

North East Face / "Terra Nostra"(to subsidiary Eastern Summit only)

Approach - Approach directly from Annapurna Base Camp

The Climb - Climb approximately 300m of initial rock pitches at VI/VI+ and A2 to reach the central section of the face. Climb the central section which includes a 50m, 85o icefall, and a difficult serac further up, to reach the summit of the subsidiary Eastern Summit (6005m)

South East Face

Approach - Climb the hillside above Hinko to a location near the foot of the SE Face glaciers.

The Climb - Climb past the glaciers to a rock wall, and climb past this using a diagonal couloir in its centre (Scottish III / IV). Go left to more couloirs and climb these to a snow slope. CLimb this to hanging glacier, passing it by an avalanche prone runnel to another hanging glacier. Pass this on the left to easier slopes. Climb these to a bergschrund, crossing it to easier slopes which lead to the summit ridge, and thence the summit.

East Face (Variation on the East Face Route)

Approach - As for the SE Face route.

The Climb - Climb past the glaciers to a rock wall, and climb past this using a diagonal couloir in its centre (Scottish III / IV). Go left to more couloirs and climb these to a snow slope. CLimb this to hanging glacier, passing it by an obvious ice ridge to the East. From the top of this a slope can be climbed by steep ice steps to the summit.

Approach - Either as for the SE Face, or via a track beside a waterfall between Hinko and Bhaga.

The Climb - Climb the South Glacier, below the North Glacier's icefall, to the rock wall. Climb the couloir in the rock wall, then abseil to another couloir. Climb this to a ridge. Follow this to another couloir and ridge, then continue on the North glacier beneath and left of seracs. Climb an ice column and a serac above until the summit ridge, and thence the summit is reached.